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  • #16
    Originally posted by dontM(ockme View Post
    Yea I have heard that the seat can cause ED. I wondered if this would be a problem. Do you use a hard saddle or one with padding?
    I had a pretty hard saddle, was light and hard for racing xc and tilted slightly up. I raced xc from 12 - 17 and had NFI about such things. I remember thinking it was weird that I felt numb in that area after a race (!) - it really squashed my 'undercarriage' and hurt blood flow, I'd even say it reduced the growth of my CS.
    I still wonder how much ED the tour de france riders have.

    These days I only ride downhill for fun every 3-4 weeks, got 8 inches of travel which helps if I'm seated, but I'm mainly standing up anyway.

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    • #17
      Think there was any kind of a correlation between Lance Armstrong's cycling and his development of testicular cancer?
      Do not speak - unless it improves on silence.

      -Buddhist saying

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      • #18
        100% positive riding a bicycle had nothing to do with his cancer.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by DemOne View Post
          100% positive riding a bicycle had nothing to do with his cancer.

          Yea...I guess it does sound kind of dumb. Just curious though.
          Do not speak - unless it improves on silence.

          -Buddhist saying

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          • #20
            I ride AM.
            I enjoy MTB. I hope it do not affect ED...
            MARCH "11_____MAY "11______OCTOBER "11_______6 month progres__
            EL = 5,51" > EL = 5,31" (- 0,2) > EL = 5,9" (+ 0,59") >>> -0,2 + 0,59 =+ 0,39"
            EG = 4,72" > EG = 5,12" (+ 0,4) > EG =5,19" (+0,07") >>> 0,4 + 0,07 = + 0,47"







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            • #21
              Yeh ive just started riding to work 4 days a week, best decision ive made this year! Its a 11.3km trip one way. Not much of a trek for the hardcor racer cyclists but its enough to give me 1hr of exercise per day! When driving a car i used to feel sorry for cyclists riding to work, but now i feel sorry for cagers who are stuck in grid lock whilst im passing them on my back wheel ahah.

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              • #22
                Funny that this thread is up right when I get home I decided biking would be a great idea so I bought a genesis r2100 from walmart about one hour ago lol... I want to get a really nice road bike but I bought this cheap walmart bike to use for a month and if I enjoy it enough I will search for a nice bike upwards of $1000... but If i'm going to spend that much money I have to prove my dedication to myself... AS for this bik I just bought I will give to my father so he can ride with me..... Any tips for somebody getting started who really wants to get serious about it??? please and thank you

                07/25/2011
                BPEL 8.5"
                NPBEL 6.5"
                EG 5.49"
                Goal 09/27/2011
                BPEL 8.5"
                NBPEL 7"
                EG 5.6
                Current as of 09/27/2011
                BPEL 8.66" 22cm
                NBPEL 6.3" :(
                EG 5.65 =)
                New Goal 12/31/2011
                BPEL 8.66"
                NBPEL 7" let's try again
                EG 5.75"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by dontM(ockme View Post
                  I'm really just getting into it seriously. There area where I live is great for hill training as there are many short hills will very high grades.

                  Anyone in the PE gym cycle as their main form of exercise?
                  BMX bikes only, freewheel single speed.
                  I just picked up an $140 Mongoose rebel 2011 Model not to long ago
                  I hate anything above 20" as my shoes hits the front tire and damages them.(Too high of a risk of flipping over or crashing)


                  I was thing about taking it back as it has issues with the breaks very slow to stop .(I all most hit a car too!) & front tire is out of balance.. (possible defected intertube ?)
                  Also had some repairs to the back break with in the first mile the rear break started dragging.

                  I think it's a lemon.

                  It also appeared to be a returned bike also. Making me pay full price shame on them...


                  On the other hand my dads schwinn (early 90's model) stops instantly
                  Thick_Unit
                  Banned
                  Last edited by Thick_Unit; 08-27-2011, 03:33 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Thick_Unit View Post
                    BMX bikes only, freewheel single speed.
                    I just picked up an $140 Mongoose rebel 2011 Model not to long ago
                    I hate anything above 20" as my shoes hits the front tire and damages them.(Too high of a risk of flipping over or crashing)


                    I was thing about taking it back as it has issues with the breaks very slow to stop .(I all most hit a car too!) & front tire is out of balance.. (possible defected intertube ?)
                    Also had some repairs to the back break with in the first mile the rear break started dragging.

                    I think it's a lemon.

                    It also appeared to be a returned bike also. Making me pay full price shame on them...


                    On the other hand my dads schwinn (early 90's model) stops instantly
                    Boil the brake pads in Dr. Pepper and clean the rim with Simple Green. Sounds crazy, but the only crazy thing about it is how well the brakes work after.

                    Though it's a $140 Mongoose. Nothing is going to be perfect on it. The front wheel on my BMX bike costs more then that.

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                    • #25
                      Thought I would chime in here on the seat questions,and maybe give some advice I have picked up. I have been road racing for over sixteen years,and have just completed a season as I head towards the big five Oh....no ! As far as cut out or solid saddles there are a few guidelines to go with. That said every one is built different,but here are a few things to look at.
                      If your bicycle is more up right or cruiser style you will be able to use a wider saddle due to how you pelvis is placed. As you get more into a road race or forward aggressive possition the saddle used will be more narrow. I have ridden solid and cut out saddles over the years that have been great on my butt,and have had some in each category that have been a nightmare to use. The next thing that comes into play is that as you get stronger and push bigger gears with more force,your over all weight on the saddle is less. This is why in the winter when I dial it down I ride a more plush bike with a more forgiving mount. When you are spinning (or just starting out your riding career))your body weight is greater on the saddle. I have found a couple styles I like and tend to stick to them. I also can ride a solid Carbonfiber saddle with no problem,however I use it for fast short races where the speeds are over 30 mph,and my ass isn't on it with much weight.
                      To throw yet another curve to finding a comfy seat is that over time our body,as well as bicycle riding possition will change. This can be for a number of reasons that I wont get into now. One thing to look out for if you are new to cycling is numbness on one side or other of your sit bones. If you lay on your back and put your legs up so you can feel the bones just in front of or forward of your ass (we call sit bones)often one may feel sharper than the other. If you press around with your fingers you will find it nerve like and movable. Often one side will swell do to the opposite leg being shorter. There for a spacer under the cleat may be required,so basically don't panic.
                      I went through lots of things when I started and most can be solved by asking at a store or local club. Happy Cycling !

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                      • #26
                        Thanks TAAB. A lot of what you've said I've been told by my bike fitter, so I think you are probably spot on. I didn't know about feeling the sit-bones for nervy sore spots, though.

                        Hey, you must do a lot of seat changing! Since my seat and riding position is set up specifically by the fitter, I am reluctant to change seats at all.

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                        • #27
                          More on that.

                          Well as far as seat changing I'm not one to muck around much once I am set up. What I know is all my measurements. Gets some paper out and take some notes. Take a tape measure out and start with the seat height. From the center of the bottom bracket to the seat rails(depending on the saddle rail to top of seat you will have a starting point as seats vary).Tip of saddle to the stem where it is clamped to the forks steer tube(top screw).I also if its a road bike will go from the tip of saddle to where my hands hold the drops. From the top of the bars to the axel of the front wheel. Also I like to get a number from the bar ends (the lowest point of the bars)to the axel as well due to bars varying in tops to the drop measurement.
                          Keep in mind this is after you have a seat height you are happy with. To get that starting point if you have no idea is to get on the bike leaning on a wall,pole or on a trainer.......pedal back wards with your heals "just" making contact through the full cycle range. This is a good starting point. Then its pedals and cranks at 9 and 3 o'clock. You will need to have a string with a weight that you will drop from the front of the knee to the centre of the pedal axel. If your in cleats this is more precise,if in soft shoes just get close to the ball of foot over the pedal axel.

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