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Failed experiment? Maybe. This has no tension or spring loading and the wench does not work when mounted. A surgical tubing noose could be used, but honestly you would be better off with a cheap ebay extender vs this thing.
Any real extender would be better I think...
Any real extender would be better I think...
Blinks Extender (Experimental)
Mwigw’s Extender is Superior, but Hard to Make:
If you've things like a drill press & you're a real handyman (and you don't mind threading copper tubes or hex heat bolts,etc.), then you might be better off making the Gen5 or Gen6 Extender. Based on appearances, it looks as good as manufactured extenders. His design is exceptional, but requires a lot of skill. I posted Mwigw’s creation here:
Why Create "Blink's Extender"?
Most homemade extenders look like poorly made medieval torture devices (hopefully you all don't feel that way about this one!). I spent some time studying homemade extenders & this resulting device is an amalgam of that research, put together in a way that most guys will be able to easily do for less than $30. If you use 1/4" surgical tubing (a noose) instead of the Captn's Wench, it will keep your costs under $20. But then you'll be missing out on most of the advantages that this extender provides. If you do use the Wench, your penis will thank you later!
Contents:
1-Materials & Tools to Build Blink's Extender
2-Assembling Blink's Extender
Assembling Part A: Velcro & Rubber attachment point (Captn's Wench)
Assembling Part B: Create the extender frame
Assembling Part C: Putting it all together
3-Final Steps
Materials to Build Blink's Extender:
The total materials cost for this extender is about $25 or less, depending on where you buy the parts.
The Wrap:
Gold's Gym Waist Trimmer Belt ($5.00 @ Wal-Mart)
Velcro Attachment:
Velcro: 10” strip of Industrial Strength VELCRO brand Tape* – 2 inch wide with sticky back; must be industrial strength, or it won’t work. ($7.95 @ Wal-Mart)
Rubber Grippers: 1”x 4” rectangles of Grippers "Soft Touch" (by Waxman). These are 1/4" thick rubber pads, with self adhesive on the back and a grippy surface. Great for preventing slippage. ($3.48 @ Lowe's Hardware)
Hardware Parts:
Teflon Tape (aka 'Plumbing Tape'). $2.00 (a few passes of this tape on the turnbuckle eye-bolts adds stability)
(all from Lowe's Hardware)
2x Turnbuckles, Zinc Plated, 1/4" x 7.5" (eye/eye) ($1.78 each) (these will be the extender arms)
1x PVC Flush Bushing: Schedule 40, 2" x 1-1/2" $1.10 ($1.78) (I noticed from the small end, this barely fit inside the coupling)
1x PVC Coupling: Schedule 40 PVC Coupling, 2" I.D. ($.86) (these 2x PVC pieces along with the extender arms complete the frame of your extender)
Nuts & Bolts:
(also, all from Lowe's Hardware)
(getting these exact parts is not as important as making sure they all fit together. Make sure the washers & wing nuts don't fit through the eye of the turnbuckle (so they can hold things together) and make sure the bolts do fit through the eyes of the turnbuckle.
2x Wing Nuts, 10/24" ($1.53) (SS Wing Nuts)
4x Machined bolts 10/24", 3/4" long ($1.02) (package of 5) (I chose flat-head bolts, but hex bolts would work if you have an alan wrench / hex key handy & you prefer that)
2x Machined bolts 10/24", 1/2" long ($1.02) (package of 5) (3/4" & 1/2" were based on my turnbuckles. If you get a different ones, these lengths might not work)
4x #12 washers (flat, round, circular) ($1.34) (just for the base, to allow you to adjust the extender angle)
4 x Locknuts (nylon) 10/24" (package of 5) ($2.43) (Nylon Insert Locknuts)
I used a saw to cut my extender, and a rasp (wood file) to file down the big parts, and then a regular file to smooth things out further. I finished up with some coarse grade sandpaper. I did my best to drill the holes on each side of the extender completely symmetrical. One of my PVC pieces (the base) had threads on the inside; those took a long time to file out.
Tools for Velcro Attachment:
Ruler
Scissors
Tools for Building Extender:
Wood Saw
Flat Head Screwdriver (for your bolts)
Rasp File (only for the roughest parts)
Metal File (for cleaning up edges & smoothing parts where the Rasp was used)
Coarse Sandpaper (for the final smoothing steps; I used "3M 60 Grade Coarse")
Drill (any Drill should work)
3/16" Bit (this made perfect size holes for my 10/24" Bolts)
1/8" Bit (to create lead holes only--so it's optional)
Pliers or Vice grips (I used these instead of a workbench to safely hold things I was sawing, drilling, i.e. times when it was dangerous to have my hand(s) close)
10/24" Socket for Socket Wrench, or a similar size wrench.
Thin Black Magic Marker (or other pen to mark spots to drill into the PVC)
1x mini screwdriver or something sharp (to poke holes in the industrial strength Velcro wrap).
Rasp: Less Common?
I think most guys will have most tools listed, but I didn't have a rasp file. I suspect a lot of guys might not have one of these laying around. I honestly think a metal file might be enough, but then it could make things harder. You could probably use drill attachments instead of a rasp (to file things down), but I'm not that 'handy' so I can't advise on that. Also, doing it by hand means there's less chance you'll make things too thin, or accidentally go too far with your file.
I had trouble deciding on a Rasp, so this may help some of you. My recommendation (I got this at Lowe's Hardware):
Kobalt 8" Wood Crafters File ($7.98) (This rasp included a metal file on the backside. I'm very pleased at how easy it was to file down & clean up the extender with this file. If you decide to get this, it's the only file you need & the quality was excellent--it has a nice handle)
Edit: the file on the backside was not a metal file at all--it turned out to be a different kind of wood file. Regardless, if you use this file it will be all you need (unless you decide later you want to file down metal parts).
Optional Tools:
Workshop Bench Vice (Optional--I didn't use one, but if I had one, this would have been easier & safer!)
Round File (optional: rasp or metal--this will help keep the internal parts of your PVC more rounded, should you need it, I didn't use one)
Fine Sandpaper (if you really want to refine things & smooth them further. For me, 60 grade course sandpaper (above) was enough.
2-Assembling Blink's Extender
The two parts are the extender frame, and the Velcro & Rubber attachment point.
Part A: Velcro & Rubber Attachment Point
If you want this part to come out perfect, follow the full version of the captain's wench instructions (but read my instructions first so you remember the differences). With my version you don't need the nylon, ignore that ingredient. Here's the full version: For more details go here: The Captn's Wench.
My modified version of the Wench:
Cut a 7" x 2" long strip of "Rough" Velcro (both strips come 2" wide already, so you're only cutting length)
Cut a 7" x 2" long strip of "Soft" Velcro
Cut two 1" x 2" strips of "Rough" Velcro
Cut two 1” x 2” rectangles of Gripper hard rubber (these came 4" wide in my case, so I only had to cut them in half)
Creating the Velcro Wrap:
Put the sticky sides together very carefully & as exactly as possible. This determines the comfort of the attachment & getting it right means you'll have less chance of being scratched by Velcro. There's much more detailed explanation of the steps to creating your Velcro & rubber attachment.
Create the Rubber Grippers
Apply the adhesive side of the 1" x 2" strips of "Rough" Velcro to the adhesive side of the 1" x 2" Gripper hard rubber. Making this match as well as possible will help prevent adhesive from eventually getting on you, or your wrap.
Finishing Your Attachment Point:
Place one hard rubber gripper (with Velcro on the back) about 5/8" to 3/4" from the left end of your Velcro strap (on the soft side). Press the hard rubber gripper firmly in place. Place the other rubber gripper about 1.5" to the right of your first rubber gripper. Also press this firmly in place. Now your attachment point is complete.
See where I bolted the attachment point to the front of the extender. Both bolts are hidden by the very edge of the rubber stoppers, so that the rubber stopper can still firmly attach & the bolts are covered enough so they won’t touch your skin.
Part B: Create the Extender Frame
Create Your Extender Base
Drill two holes in your PVC Flush Bushing: Schedule 40, 2" x 1-1/2". Make sure they are both exactly about 3/4" down from the top, thinner part of the PVC. The bottom part will form the base of your extender. I used a ruler & a thin black magic marker to mark my spots for drilling. I held the base with pliers (vice grips would work too) while I drilled a small lead hole with my 1/8" bit. I did my best to make sure the other lead hole was exactly symmetrical to the other hole (both exactly 3/4" down, both on exact opposite sides of the PVC). I created a final hole with my 5/8" drill bit. This made perfect size holes for my 5/8" bolts.
To improve comfort, I filed the internal part of the "PVC Flush Bushing base" completely flat where the bolts attached (so I took it a step further than just filing out the threads). I used the metal part of the file to assure everything was fairly rounded out. If you later find the extender is uncomfortable at the base, you can use the rasp & metal file to make things more ergonomic (just like the more expensive manufactured extenders). Now you're ready to use the coarse 60 grade sandpaper to smooth things out further. If you're a perfectionist, you can further smooth things out with fine sandpaper (optional; I didn't do this).
Attaching the Extender Arms
After I was satisfied things were flat I put washers & bolts on the inside of the "PVC Flush Bushing" which now forms the extender base. Now, with each arm, the machined 10/24" x 3/4" bolt goes through the eye of each respective turnbuckle. Put a washer & then the nylon locknut on the outside of each turnbuckle. The washer under the bolt on the inside & the washer on the outside (under the nylon locknut) will allow your extender arms to move up or down as needed.
Tighten the Nylon Locknuts:
Now you can use the 10/24" attachment on a socket wrench to tighten down the locknuts. A butter knife or another piece of metal can help hold things in place while you tighten the locknut. The locknut will be fairly difficult to tighten with the wrong tools. Also, don't make it so tight that you crack the PVC! Having it nice & snug should help keep the extender more stable.
Create Your Extender Front End
Now, use the base of your extender to figure out where to put the holes on your PVC front end (use the Schedule 40 PVC Coupling, 2" I.D.). I used the extender arms to figure out where to drill my holes. Do your best to keep the turnbuckle arms perfectly parallel, and to make your holes symmetrical as well. A ruler may help, but I did this partly mostly by 'eyeballing'. Effectively, you want the bottom of the PVC front end to line up with the bottom of the PVC base. This will allow your penis to stay in the exact middle while its wrapped & strapped into the extender.
Drill Your Holes
Set the holes about 1/2" down from the top of the PVC. Also, although the holes should be symmetrical, they will be a little above the middle of the PVC pipe. Use a thin black magic marker to mark the points where you're going to drill. After you drill the first hole, check things again before you drill the second hole. Use the extender arms as a guideline for getting the holes in the right place. Once again, the bottom of the PVC Coupling front even should line up with the bottom of the PVC Bushing base. Use pliers or a vice to hold your PVC, then drill your lead holes with the 1/8" bit. Then use the 3/16" bit to drill the holes for your bolts.
Sawing: Part 1
This is where things get a little tricky. Saw off the top part of your PVC pipe (with a wood saw) but leave about 3/8" to 1/2" clearance for your bolts. If you're going to make a mistake here, err on the side of leaving too much PVC, rather than too little. Consider you can always file things down further, or saw more off if needed. Use a vice grip or pliers to hold the PVC in place while you saw. A workbench here helps, but I didn't have one. Do your best to saw things in a fairly straight line. Confirm things look good by comparing the hole placement vs. your extender arms.
Sawing: Part 2
Now, to get the extender to fit together, you'll need to create some clearance. Right now your PVC pipe will be too wide for your extender. What you're going to do is leave 2x large tabs where your bolts attach your PVC to the extender. Effectively you're cutting about 1" to 3/4" more of your PVC off, except where the bolts attach. See the pictures of my completed extender to make sense of this. Use the black magic marker to mark your starting points & saw carefully. Once again, hold the PVC with pliers or a vice (or be extra careful if you use your hands) while you saw. Avoid being tempted to break off the last bit of PVC; try to just saw through it all to avoid cracking things or making things ugly.
File Down the Extender PVC Front:
Now it's time to remove the sharp bits so the PVC can't cut you. The rasp is helpful for grinding down the thickest points, but generally I had to use the metal file to clean up after the rasp. The rasp alone left some deep grooves the sandpaper couldn't remove. If you want to really refine things, you can round out all the edges. That includes not just where you sawed, but the bottom & top parts of the PVC. I made sure there wasn't a single sharp edge left of the PVC using the rasp & the metal file. I found, at least for me, that the metal file was sometimes more effective than the rasp (it might not be the same for you). If you find you didn't cut things perfectly, as long as you left more PVC (instead of less), you can just keep grinding things down till they are perfect.
Use the 10/24" x 3/4" bolts (or 1/2" bolts might work here too), along with the Wing Nuts to connect the extender arms to the PVC. If things don't look quite right, you can either file things down more with the extender assembled or you can take note of the imperfections & dissemble the extender (and file things down some more). Once again, make sure there are no sharp edges & use rough 60 grade sandpaper to further smooth things after you're done with the metal file.
Now both components are complete... you have a Velcro & rubber attachment as well as an extender frame. Now it's time to put it together.
Part C: Putting it all together
The key here is creating the extender so it fits you perfectly. If you grow out of it, you can always use a new piece of PVC or longer extender arms.
Customize: Make Your Extender Fit You
You don't want the Velcro & Rubber wrap to cover your glans, so you'll need to make sure to attach it with plenty of room. Hold the base of the extender and press it to your pubic bone (your balls should hang down below the PVC pipe, so the edge of the PVC rests on your pubic bone and across the top of your scrotum).
Now give a gentle stretch with an OK grip towards the top of your shaft to see how far your glans can reach. Take note of how far forward your coronal ridge can reach (the back of your glans). Mark slightly behind this point with the black magic marker (a dot will do). Now you can be sure your extender will fit you! Now, line up the dot with the top of the Velcro & Rubber wrap. Now, about 3/4" down from the top of your wrap is where you'll need to drill the holes.
In my case, this was about 3/8" to 3/4" up from the bottom of the PVC. This will be different for every person. Figure out where the bottom edge of each rubber grip will rest on the inside of your extender (by holding it in place on the extender where you intend to install it). Now use magic marker to mark holes on the left & right sides of your extender respectively. Make sure you don't place the bolt in the middle. Each bolt should be respectively on the left & right sides of the PVC (see my picture(s) for an example).
Noose Option: (Not Recommended, but Possible)
If you don't want to use the captains wench you can use 1/4" surgical tubing as a noose. One foot (1') of /4" surgical tubing costs about $1 (available at any medical supply store). Drill two 1/4" holes about 3/8" apart in the Schedule 40 PVC Coupling, 2" I.D. The placement of the holes should be customized based on your needs (how far your penis can stretch). You can thread the latex or surgical tubing through these holes, creating a noose. A paper clip can be used to hold the noose in place.
Bolt on Your Wench:
Now use the 1/8" bit to create lead holes for your attachment point bolts, then you can use the 3/16" bit to create holes for your 10/24" machine bolts. The 2x layers of industrial strength Velcro seem pretty strong to me, so I didn't use a washer. A washer would make it difficult for the rubber floor stops to attach anyway, so it seemed like a bad idea.
Now hold your wench in place where you plan to attach it (your black magic marker spot can guide you, or you can put your penis inside again & stretch it to make sure. Once you're sure you've found the right spot, use a sharp object to put holes through your Velcro strap, which will line up with your bolts. I used a super thin mini-screwdriver (the kind for laptop screws), followed by a thicker screwdriver to create holes just barely big enough to allow the 10/24" machine bolts through. Don't make the holes too big, this could allow the wench to fall of your extender. Now you can use 2x nylon locknuts to secure the 2x 10/24" machine bolts (1/2" long) and your wench (Velcro & rubber attachment point) to your extender.
If you notice any bolts are too long, you may want to cut them with a hacksaw and / or file them down with a metal file. The device should no longer have any sharp edges & everything should be smooth.
Your completed device should look something like my picture(s) (also see the image at the very top of this article).
Final Steps
Final Steps: 'Wrapping' Things Up
Cut a strip from your "Gold's Gym Waist Trimmer Belt" ($5 @ Wal-Mart) about 2" to 2.5" wide. If the belt turns out too long (.i.e. your flaccid wrapped girth is too thick), you can cut the belt shorter to adjust. This "Waist Trimmer Belt" has Velcro on it & can stick to itself. It almost feels like wetsuit material but much thinner and softer, with a rubbery sticky side & a softer cloth side.
To wrap, make sure the "Velcro" part is on the far end of the wrap & that it will end facing down. Start with 1-2 perpendicular passes behind your glans. It's important to leave your glans exposed so you can monitor your blood flow, and visually check to see that it's not turning blue or purple. The wrap will also protect the Velcro from scratching you. If you decide you don't want to use the "Gold's Gym Waist Trimmer Belt", then some medical gauze could serve as an alternative wrap.
Improving Your Comfort
If you find your pubic bone getting sore, remember you can use the metal file or rasp to create curve in the PVC base that rests on your pubic bone. To get a concept of what a properly curved base looks like, try checking out a picture of an X4 Labs or Penimaster extender. If further comfort is required, you can use foam padding at the base of the extender.
Adding Stability (Teflon on Threads)
If you (like me) are only able to find cheap turnbuckles, you may find they are somewhat loose. A little teflon can work some serious magic. Find "Teflon Tape" in the plumbing section at your hardware store. It's super thin tape made to help prevent plumbing leaks (via threads). I used 2x to 3x passes of teflon along the threads of the "eye" bolts that connect to the turnbuckle. My extender has gone from being "wobbly" to very solid.
Tight Bolts also Helps
Another important note: you may have to make things fairly tight to get the extender to be stable. Just avoid making things so tight you crack the PVC. I cranked up the tightness a bit & that combined with the teflon has made the extender rock solid (very stable).
Here's several views of the extender to make it easier to build (including a few images with the extender partially disassembled).
Note: This is still a work in progress. I'll add spring loaded tension to this device soon. I'll then edit this article with those instructions. I have tried to do this, but the local hardware store didn't have the right size springs & there were some other issues. These instructions will likely change in the near future.
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