DJ76's DIY LG design

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

First, let me state up-front that I really like the LG hanger and the concept of long-duration sets has opened my eyes. I don't wish to offend the creators of the LG, they have been very helpful to me and to the community.
However, I've found it nearly impossible to avoid vacuum blisters at weights 12.5 lbs and above (I've even had blisters form at 10 lbs). I think the reason is that the hollowed dome is a perfect cylinder, capped at the end with a perfect dome. The area i keep getting blisters as at the taper of the glans about 1/4" on either side of the meatus - the is the exact area where the contour of the dome and the contour of the glans are at the greatest distance apart.

I feel that to prevent blisters, especially at higher weights I'm going to need the dome interior to be more of a custom fit. Therefore i'm going to make a mold and actually cast a custom fit hanger that is molded exactly to my penis (which means part of the process will be "cloning my willy").

This thread will be my attempt to document the process and write down what I learn in the process. I'll also document the time and cost so that others can determine if this is a method they might like to use. I will also be attempting to do this with no special tools or materials to make it easier to fabricate one.

I will be doing this in 4 steps:
1- Make the buck for the mold. This simply means building an object that physically resembles the outside of the actual hanger.
2- making the mold from the buck. I will be using a silicone that is specially for mold-making.
3- Cloning my penis, then casting a reproduction of it
4- using the mold and the cast of my penis, I will then pour the resin into the mold and cast the physical hanger.

I do estimate a few hurdles:
- I will have to find a way to deal with sharp undercuts in the finished hanger (the area right behind the corona is a good example). I will either have to file them down in the finished hanger, in the alginate mold of my penis before casting the duplicate, or by filling the sharpest recesses in the duplicate cast of my penis before casting the hanger.

- I will likely have to make several to test whether it is more advantageous to copy my penis in a fully erect, partially erect, or super erect (clamped) state.

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

This spot reserved for price and time documentation...

Step 1: Making the buck
(this is a one-time cost!)

Cost

Part	Part #	Price
1 1/2" PVC cap	Lowes 23899	$0.92
1 1/2" PVC coupling	Lowes 23281	$0.47
1 1/2" PVC pipe (2 ft. length *)	HomeDepot 611942109456	$3.51
Total:		$4.90

*Only needed 2.25" of the 2 foot length, but this was the shortest length Home Depot sold.
* Did not include the price of PVC cement, as I already had some. Any kind of glue would work for this purpose, as it's not structural.

Time
Aside from shopping, I only spent about an hour assembling the buck, most of which went into sanding and polishing (a step that really isn't necessary, but I thought it would look nicer)


Step 2: Making the mold
(this is a one-time cost!)

Cost

Part	Part #	Price
Pledge Furniture Polish	Home Depot 046500726606	$5.47
Mold Silicone (trial size)	Smooth-On OOMO 30	$25.47
Hot glue gun	HomeDepot 045731132293	$4.97
Total:		$35.91

*Only special items listed. Not counting cost of paper plates, stirring sticks or disposable cups.


Time
The entire process of making the mold took 45 minutes. Tomorrow when it cures, it may take an additional couple of minutes to release the mold rubber from the tupperware and from the buck. I will update this tomorrow if the time involved becomes significant.

Step 3: Cloning and reproducing my penis
(this is a one-time cost!)

Cost

Part	Part #	Price
Alginate	Smooth-On Algisafe, 3 lbs.	$21.83
Mold Silicone (trial size)	Smooth-On OOMO 30	Left-over
Total:		$21.83

*Only special items listed. Not counting cost of stirring sticks or disposable cups. Also, the OOMO 30 used for this step was already purchased for step 2 and there was plenty of left-over material to complete this step as well.

** Since I'm only concerned with reproducing the first few inches of my penis for the hanger, this is all I concentrated on. I did not mold or cast my entire penis - though you can use these steps to do so if you wish.

*** The minimum order for the Algisafe was 3 lbs. I doubt that I used even 1/4 lb. between all 3 molds. Therefore, for this project only about $2.00 worth of Algisafe was actually used!
I suggest finding something fun to do with the rest... Let the kids make molds of their hands and feet, for example. Lots of fun can be had with the left-over alginate!

Time
This step took a little more time

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

Step 1: Making the buck for the mold

The first thing to realize is that the buck will not be a part of the final hanger, and it doesn't even need to be structurally sound. It is used only once when making the mold. It's only purpose is to define the outside shape of the hanger.

I decided to use PVC to make my buck because it's:
A) Readily available
B) Cheap!
C) has components that can be fit together with minimal work to create the buck.

I started off with the following parts:
-1.5" PVC rounded end cap
-1.5" PVC coupler
-1.5" PVC pipe (you only need about 3" of this stuff!)

The first thing I noticed were the ugly casting marks, and the printed information on the end of the rounded cap.
20131002_103545.jpg

I spent about 30 minutes with a spongy sanding block to clean up the cast marks and printed information. Then I took a paper towel with a small amount of toot paste to buff it back to a shine (any polishing agent will work, but everyone has toothpaste, and most brands are abrasive enough to put a shine back onto the areas I sanded:
20131002_112800.jpg

Next I went and cut a 2.5" long piece of 1.5" PVC. This ended up being a perfect size for the buck that I want to make. Here are all the parts together:
20131002_154533.jpg

Now I just used some PVC cement and pressed everything together. I wanted to leave a half-inch gap in the middle for securing the silicone tube. I also purposely wanted to make the buck extra-long. My reasoning is that I will cast the finished hanger at full length and experiment with different lengths with my hanging. All I will have to do is cut it down bit at a time and sand smooth at each stage of my testing. You can see in this next image how the first part of the buck lines up with my LG.
20131002_155410.jpg

The buck is slightly larger in diameter than my LG. The measurements of my LG are 2.0" at the widest part, narrowing down to 1.8" where the silicone sleeve attaches.
Using the 1.5" PVC, the buck measures 2.25" at the widest part, narrowing down to 1.9" where the silicone sleeve attaches.

EDIT:
There is a 5-picture limit per post, so this post continues here: https://www.pegym.com/forums/penis-d...tml#post740814

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

Step 2: Making the mold from the buck

Today I poured the mold as soon as I got home from work. The entire process took about 45 minutes. The full cure time of the mold Silicone is 6 hours, so I won't get to look at the finished mold until tomorrow.

First, here are the tools I used today:
- A few wax-coated paper cups for mixing the Silicone
- A few tongue-depressor wooden sticks for mixing the Silicone
- Pledge furniture polish as a mold release agent
- A few paper plates to keep my mess down
- A tupperware container to use as a mold box
- A hot glue gun and some glue sticks
- OOMO 30 mold Silicone
- The buck I made in step 1
20131005_175913.jpg



Here are the steps that I took:
1) First I cleaned the inside of the tupperware container and the buck and dried them real well

2) I applied a good bead of Hotglue around the bottom rim of the buck, and stuck it centered to the bottom of the tupperware container. This is to seal the silicone from running underneath the buck and into the hollow cavity inside the buck. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the buck glued down to the bottom of the tupperware container, but this shouldn't be hard to imagine (I'll come back through after I demold and take a picture to place in here)
20131005_182229.jpg

3) I dispensed equal amounts of OOMO 30 parts A and B into their own cups. Mixing thoroughly is extremely important, so I poured one cup into another and hand mixed for a while, then poured it all back into the other cup and hand mixed it for a while, and so on. I did this several times to ensure thorough mixing. (I actually had to do this twice as the first mixing didn't have enough mixed Silicone to completely cover the buck). In total I used about 2/3 of the silicone on making the mold. The remaining 1/3 will be used to make clones of the top 3-4" of my penis.
20131005_182949.jpg
20131005_183258.jpg


4) I sprayed Pledge furniture polish into the mold box (tupperware), coating the buck and inner walls of the tupperware. I then used a paper towel to rub the polish in and clean up any accumulation. This will aid in releasing the mold from the buck after it cures. They make special mold-release sprays for this, but again I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible using as few special items as possible!

5) I poured the finished Silicone mixture directly into the tupperware, completely covering the buck. (see footnotes below)
20131005_184738.jpg*

6) I spent a few minutes drumming my fingers against the side of the tupperware to help any air bubbles float up to the top.

7) Helpful hint: You may want to warn your wife that you're taking up the counter top for about an hour, and using her tupperware for one of your crazy projects. As hard as it is to believe, my wife wasn't all too impressed to see me hogging the counter and deflowering her tupperware without warning!


Footnotes:
I deliberately chose an overly-simple mold and wanted to explain why. First, I wanted to make this easy if anyone else wanted to try it, and nothing could be much easier than pouring silicone into some tupperware! If this were a production mold expected to cast hundreds or even thousands of parts I would have been better off taking the time to make a properly registered split mold and an adjustable mold box to make releasing produced parts an easy and gentle process. However, I can still get plenty of castings from this method, it will just be a bit of work getting the finished parts out of the mold. One side of the mold can even be cut with a razor if removing the cast hanger becomes too problematic (and after securing with a strap is still capable of casting more hangers). Therefore, in this situation it just made sense to keep things as simple as possible.

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

Step 3: Cloning and reproducing my penis

Tools required:
- Smooth-on Algisafe Alginate
- Disposable cups
- Tongue depressors/stirring sticks
- Smooth-on OOMO 30 mold silicone

The first thing to do is make a temporary mold of your penis with the alginate. This so far was probably the hardest step involved! Alginate can be a little tempermental - the shelf life is very short once mixed, and even the temperature of the water used to mix it with can have a big impact on the final quality of the mixed alginate. On top of that, you have to worry about maintaining at least a partial erection while mixing, stirring and dipping your penis into a cup of cold alginate.

Algisafe is mixed 1:1 ratio by volume. Exactly one cup of Algisafe and one cup of water worked perfect to fill one red solo cup that I used to make the mold. Simply combine the Algisafe and water into the solo cup then mix it like a mad man (you want absolutely no clumps!). Right after mixing, tap the cup repeatedly on a flat surface to help any air bubbles rise up to the top, then submerge your unit directly into the mixture. You'll have to hold your penis submerged like this for 4-5 minutes, then let your erection fade away so you can pull your penis back out. You should be left with a near perfect mold of your penis, down to every little vein and variation!
20131007_111142.jpg

In total I made 3 molds (one semi-erect, one erect, and one super-erect (clamped)). The clamped one didn't turn out unfortunately, and was my only bad pour. I tried mixing it with warm water to make dipping my junk into the mixture a little more comfortable, but all it did was make the alginate very clumpy and full of air pockets. No big deal though, I'm thinking that the smaller reproductions will give a better friction-fit due to the fit matching my erect size a bit closer. Note that in one of the molds I went a little too deep and the tip of my glans were on the bottom of the cup. I didn't think this would be a huge deal so I cast that one as well.
20131007_120747.jpg20131007_120730.jpg

Lastly, I mixed some OOMO 30 in a cup (Like I did in step one), then poured the mold silicone right into the alginate molds that are in the cups. One thing to note is that alginate is very fragile, so you don't want the silicone to be in there forever while curing. Since OOMO 30 has a 30 minute pot life, you should let it sit for 25 minutes and then pour it into the alginate molds. This will ensure that the silicone doesn't degrade the alginate while it is setting up.
After pouring the silicone, i embedded a bolt head-down into the silicone. This will give me something to suspend the silicone reproduction from when I actually cast the finished hanger (this will make sense when I get to the pouring the actual hanger).
20131007_123356.jpg

Tomorrow I should be pouring the hanger!

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

reserved for step 4

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

reserved for final thoughts

[Bnip Retired Moderator Member of the Month July 2013PEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close Bnip]

Reserved for awesomeness....

[namsokiek Banned Find all posts View Profile Close namsokiek]

Watching with baited breath.

Edit: will you be casting the eye bolt and the quick release valve into the plastic?

[Tim the toolman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Tim the toolman]

Ya, I've had trouble with blistering also. I've used the LG Hanger 3x and gotten 2 blisters. Wrapping as instructed. Trying to figure out the level of breath ability the wrap needs to be.

Why don't you try to make a mold of your glans. Then make a replica of your penis. Then cast rubber directly into the LG Hanger (placing your replica into the rubber) and route the air?

[DirtyNerd Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close DirtyNerd]

Nice cant wait for the end result keep up the good work mate

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

Ya, I've had trouble with blistering also. I've used the LG Hanger 3x and gotten 2 blisters. Wrapping as instructed. Trying to figure out the level of breath ability the wrap needs to be.

Why don't you try to make a mold of your glans. Then make a replica of your penis. Then cast rubber directly into the LG Hanger (placing your replica into the rubber) and route the air?

This is exactly what I'm doing, though I will be using a clear resin and not silicone rubber

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

Watching with baited breath.

Edit: will you be casting the eye bolt and the quick release valve into the plastic?

I probably won't cast the valve and eye bolt into the plastic. Doing so will complicate the mold making way more than doing post-drilling on the cast part. I did put some serious thought into it though!

[donjelqer76 Retired ModeratorPEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close donjelqer76]

This is in addition to Step 1, Making the buck
continued from: https://www.pegym.com/forums/penis-d...tml#post740225

Each post can only have 5 attachments, so I will continue them here.
I started realizing that I made the buck way too long. I decided to cut it down (carefully with a hacksaw, making sure to stay square). I left a heavy 1/4" of the coupler at the bottom of the buck, then spent a good half-hour sanding the remaining ring down to round it out and make it more attractive and functional. I also used a bit of wood putty in the seams between the cap/coupler and the 1.5" PVC pipe to round them out a bit to avoid undercuts in the mold. Here are a couple pictures where things stand as of today:

20131003_162455.jpg

20131003_162421.jpg


I think at this point the buck is ready and I'm just waiting for my casting supplies to arrive. I may put a coat of gloss paint over the buck from a rattle can just to help smooth any imperfections and give it a nice smooth finish before making the mold from it.

[Padawan787 Moderator ReservePEGym Hero Find all posts View Profile Close Padawan787]

Couldn't this prove problematic if you end up gaining glans girth because of the vacuum? Custom fit would end up being too snug and you'd have to refit.